Dog Grooming

Dog Brushing Guide by Coat Type

Smooth, double, curly, wire or silky: match the right brush and technique to your dog's coat.

A small long-coated dog being brushed with a slicker brush
On this page
  1. Why Coat Type Matters
  2. Brushes and Schedules at a Glance
  3. Smooth and Short Coats
  4. Double Coats
  5. Curly and Wavy Coats
  6. Wire Coats
  7. Long Silky Coats
  8. Mats and Problem Areas

The right brush makes grooming quicker, more comfortable and far more effective. The wrong one skims the surface, misses the tangles underneath or scratches the skin. Here is how to match tools and technique to your dog's coat, whether it is smooth, double, curly, wire or long and silky.

Why Coat Type Matters

Dog coats differ in length, texture and whether they have an undercoat. A Labrador's short double coat sheds onto the floor. A Poodle's curly coat holds loose hair inside the curls, where it twists into mats. A Yorkie's fine silky hair tangles at friction points such as the armpits. Each needs a different approach.

Whatever the coat, a few rules always apply:

  • Brush before bathing. Water tightens tangles into mats.
  • Brush to the skin. A coat that looks smooth on top can be matted underneath.
  • Use light pressure. Let the tool do the work and avoid scraping the skin.
  • Finish with a comb. A metal comb is the only reliable way to check you have reached every tangle.

Brushes and Schedules at a Glance

Coat typeExample breedsMain brushesHow often
Smooth or shortBoxer, Beagle, Dalmatian, Pit Bull typesRubber curry brush, bristle brushOnce a week
DoubleHusky, German Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Corgi, LabUndercoat rake, slicker brush, wide tooth comb2 to 3 times a week; daily during seasonal shedding
Curly or wavyPoodle, Bichon Frise, DoodlesSlicker brush, long pin combDaily or every other day
WireSchnauzer, Wire Fox Terrier, Border TerrierSlicker brush, metal comb, stripping tools for hand stripped coatsOnce a week
Long silkyShih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Lhasa ApsoPin brush, soft slicker, fine and wide tooth combDaily

Smooth and Short Coats

Short coats are the easiest to care for, but many still shed a lot. Brushing weekly removes loose hair before it reaches your sofa and keeps the coat glossy.

  1. Loosen dead hair. Work a rubber curry brush or grooming mitt over the body in small circular motions, against the direction of hair growth. Dogs usually love this massage.
  2. Sweep it away. Follow with a bristle brush in the direction of growth to remove the loosened hair.
  3. Polish. A quick wipe with a damp chamois or soft cloth adds shine.

Skip slicker brushes and rakes on very short coats. With little hair to cushion them, the pins can scratch the skin.

Double Coats

Double coated dogs have a dense, soft undercoat beneath longer guard hairs. They "blow" their undercoat once or twice a year, typically in spring and fall, releasing huge amounts of hair over two to three weeks.

  1. Rake the undercoat. Pull an undercoat rake through the coat in the direction of growth, using short strokes. Focus on the thickest areas: neck ruff, chest, back thighs ("pants") and tail.
  2. Line brush with a slicker. Part the coat, brush the hair below the part down and out, then move the part up about half an inch and repeat until you have covered each area.
  3. Comb to check. A wide tooth comb should slide through to the skin without catching.
Safety note: Do not shave a double coated dog to reduce shedding or keep it cool. The coat insulates against heat and protects against sunburn, and shaved coats can grow back patchy or uneven. Use deshedding tools gently and limit them to once or twice a week, since overuse can cut guard hair and irritate skin.

For heavy shedders, our deshedding guide covers rakes, blow drying and seasonal plans in more detail.

Curly and Wavy Coats

Curly coats grow continuously and trap shed hair inside the curls. Without frequent brushing, mats form in days, especially behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits and on the legs. Doodles with wavy, fleecy coats are often even more mat prone than Poodles.

  1. Mist the coat. A light spray of water mixed with a little conditioner, or a detangling spray, reduces breakage. Never brush a completely dry curly coat.
  2. Line brush everything. Use a slicker brush with a light, patting stroke, working in sections from the feet up. Brush to the skin each time.
  3. Comb every inch. Use a long pinned comb (at least 1.5 inches for longer coats). If it snags, go back with the slicker.
  4. Work small tangles gently. Hold the hair at the base, near the skin, and pick the tangle apart from the outside in.
Pro tip: If you cannot keep up with a long curly coat, ask your groomer for a shorter style. A coat of about half an inch to one inch is far easier to maintain at home than a long fluffy look.

Wire Coats

Wire coats are harsh and crisp on top with a softer undercoat. Brush weekly with a slicker brush, then comb through, paying attention to the beard, eyebrows and leg furnishings, where tangles and food collect.

Traditionally, wire coats are hand stripped: dead hair is pulled out by hand or with a stripping knife, which keeps the coat's color and harsh texture. It is a skilled job, usually done every 8 to 12 weeks by a groomer who specializes in it. Many pet owners prefer clipping, which is quicker but softens the coat and can dull the color over time. Either is fine for a pet; just let your groomer know which you prefer.

Long Silky Coats

Silky coats have little undercoat, but the fine hair tangles easily, especially at friction points. Daily brushing of five to ten minutes keeps it under control.

  1. Mist lightly. Use a light conditioning spray to protect the fine hair from breaking.
  2. Pin brush in layers. Lay your dog on its side and line brush from the paws upward, using a pin brush or soft slicker.
  3. Comb with two widths. Use the wide teeth first, then the fine teeth around the face, ears and feet.
  4. Tie up the topknot. A small elastic band or bow keeps hair out of the eyes. Use a latex free band and remove it every couple of days to brush underneath.

Many owners of silky breeds choose a short "puppy cut" from a groomer, which keeps the look soft while cutting brushing time dramatically.

Mats and Problem Areas

Mats are not only unsightly. They pull on the skin, trap moisture and dirt, and can hide sores and parasites. Check these spots every time you brush: behind the ears, the collar line, armpits, the belly, between the back legs, the base of the tail and between the paw pads.

Small, loose tangles can be worked out with your fingers, a detangling spray and the end of a comb. Mats that are tight to the skin, felted or cover large areas need professional clipping.

Safety note: Never cut mats out with scissors. The skin is often pulled up inside the mat and is very easy to slice. If mats are widespread, a short shave down by a groomer is the kindest option, and the coat will grow back.

Brushing is the foundation of every grooming routine. To see how it fits with bathing, nails, ears and teeth, read the complete guide to at-home dog grooming.